B&B
Bassani
Borla
Borlamouth
Camshafts
Corsa
Custom
Dynomax
Dynomouth
Edelbrock
Flowmaster
GHL Motorsports
GMMG
Headers/Cutout
Hooker
MAC
Magnaflow
Mufflex
Random Tech
SLP 2otl
SLP Dual-Dual
SLP Loudmouth
Spintech
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True Duals
TSP Rumbler
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The following information was provided by JRP @ ls1tech.com:

Shorty headers offer minimal power gains if any at all, but may be your only option if you want to remain 100% smog legal and/or obtain a C.A.R.B. certification.  Mid-length headers offer better gains than shorties, but aren't as good as full length headers.  Full length (or long tube) headers offer the best power gains, but are not smog legal (although some stations will still pass your car if they see cats) and may scrape on lowered cars.  SLP LT headers are notorious for hanging lower than the other brands, and causing problems with lowered cars.

Any headers besides shorties will require a new Y pipe!

Pacesetters: Extremely popular due to their price, they can be bought coated for under $400.  Quality is very good for the price, and the welds and collector are good.  If you’re on a budget and want LT's then Pacesetters should be at the top of your list.

Jet Hot/Hookers: The Hooker and Jet Hot long tubes are of the same design.  Jet Hot took the Hooker design and improved upon it a bit by moving the O2 bungs to the inside of the headers, plus they use a thicker tubing and have thicker flanges.  Both are great long tubes and will run you $500-600.

QTP/Kooks: Both Kooks and QTP are stainless steel headers, and are generally regarded as the cream of the crop.  Quality is top notch and they can be polished for that bling look if you'd like.  Their only draw back is the price: at $700+ they are not for everyone.  If you have the money or are the kind of person who wants the best, then Kooks or QTP is the way to go.  As far as Kooks vs. QTP; get whichever one is cheaper.

SLP: SLP's are the long tube that usually sparks some debate.  A lot of newbies are drawn into them because of the HP claims made by SLP.  But as already stated all LT's dyno within the same range so SLP's claims are moot.  From a quality stand point they are a great header; stainless steel and are ceramic coated.  Their major drawback is installation and lack of ground clearance.  If you plan to lower your car then pass on the SLP's or learn to change your driving style or else you'll endure a lot of scrapping.  Another drawback is the price as they are $700+.  If you’re going to spend $700+ on headers, be sure to give the Kooks/QTP headers VERY serious consideration.

FLP1|FLP2|FLP3|FLP4|FLP5|FLP6: At first glance a lot of people are turned off on the FLP setup because of the price.  What you have to understand is the FLP setup comes as a kit with the ceramic-coated headers, Y pipe, cats, and off road pipes.  When you look at it from that perspective it’s a great deal and setup.  The biggest advantage of the FLP system is the ability to swap from cats to off-road pipes and vise versa at will.  Great for guys who want to run off-road pipes and then need to swap to cats for emissions requirements.

Others available but not reviewed:
-Dynatech
-Flowtech
-PPC
-Stainless Works
-Supermaxx
-Thunder Racing
-TTS

Cutouts are usually placed in the I-pipe and allow you to run an open exhaust manually by removing a plate, or automatically using an electric cutout.

When buying long tube headers, you'll need two O2 sensor extensions since the O2 bungs have now been moved farther down the exhaust stream.  Most Y/H/X pipes do not have rear O2 provisions, so you'll need to run two O2 simulators or get your computer re-tuned to prevent an SES light.

DO NOT PUT O2 SIMS ON THE FRONT O2 SENSORS!!!
(B1S1 and B2S1)

The car's computer determines the A/F ratio from the readings it receives from the two front O2 sensors when it enters closed loop operation for normal driving.

If you want to keep your AIR/EGR system in place, you may need to add air restrictor plates.

shorty headers	mid-length headers	long tube headers	electric cutout